The melody, a gentle twanging of oud and qanun and a whistling drone of the nay, rose above the babble of voices that filled the katra. Serving women in bell-bedecked layered skirts and vests moved through the laughing, singing crowd bearing steaming dallahs of coffee and karak chai, and sweetened tamar and laban, and fortified wines. Here and there, one or another of the women spun, laughing
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